Posts Tagged HDMI Cable

HDMI 1.4 is better! Here’s why…

1. HDMI Ethernet Channel

Perhaps one of the most important (and most useful) of the new improvements is the HDMI Ethernet Channel. This is a data link that enables high speed, bi-directional communication. This means that a source can send data to a display and at the same time a display can send data to the source. Compatible devices can send a receive data using 100Mb/sec Ethernet – this makes them instantly ready for any IP-based application. The HDMI Ethernet Channel allows internet-enabled HDMI devices to share and Internet connection using the link, with no need for a separate Ethernet cable. With more and more devices utilizing Internet based features, this cable feature will reduce the number of cable’s needed to make your devices work to their full potential importantly ease the cable clutter. It also provides the platform that will allow HDMI-enabled components to share content between devices. Compatibility includes TCP/IP, UPnP, DLNA and LiquidHD.

 To utilise this feature a new type of HDMI cable is required to be used. This new cable is called either a High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet or a Stadard HDMI Cable with Ethernet.

  Nice and simple. Finding the right HDMI Cable just became a lot more easier – look out for these logos when you purchase your HDMI Cables.

2. Audio Return Channel

Another welcome addition to the new HDMI spec, this feature reduces the number of cables required to deliver audio from the TV to an AV receiver for processing and playback. This is a very useful new feature because many TVs now have an internal content source such as a Freeview or Freesat tuner built-in – the Audio Return Channel on the HDMI allows the TV to send data to the receiver using the HDMI cable and removes the necessity for a separate audio cable such as an optical cable.  

3. 3D over HDMI

Everybody is talking about 3D at the moment and the new spec defines common 3D formats and resolutions for HDMI-enabled devices, enabling 3D gaming and other 3D video applications. The new spec standardises the connection for a 3D home cinema system, facilitating 3D resolutions up to dual-stream 1080p (that’s 3D 1080p basically).  

4. 4K x 2K Resolution Support

If you think 1080p is awesome, imagine it four times sharper! Support for 4K x 2K allows the HDMI cable to carry the digital content transmission at the same resolution as the most state-of-the-art Digital Cinema systems used in many cinemas. Formats supported include 3,840 x 2,160 pixels at 24Hz, 25Hz & 30Hz, and 4,096 x 2160 pixels at 24Hz. Forget 1080p, think 4096p!  

5. Expanded support for Colour Spaces

This feature means that Digital Camera Pictures and still images should display more accurate colours on displays with the upgraded format capability. If you’re into your photography you will be familiar with sYCC601, Adobe RGB and Adobe YCC601. If you are not, then put simply your holiday snaps should look even better!  

Make sure you make the right HDMI cable purchase, make an investment for the future. Choose infinius High Speed HDMI Cable with Ethernet. Indisputably top-spec, its the perfect future-ready cable partner for your set-up.

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Are expensive digital HDMI cables better

“You wouldn’t spend £20,000 on a car then put cheap tyres on it, would you?”

That might seem like powerful argument for road safety, but it’s the kind of line being trotted out in high street electrical stores to sell HDMI cables.

These short, unexciting-looking wires are used to connect devices such as Blu-ray players and games consoles to modern, flat screen televisions.

HDMI cables rarely come included with new gadgets and while they can be bought for as little as 95p, some retailers stock models costing up to £110.

Many shoppers report being steered in the direction of more expensive HDMI cables by eager sales staff, who claim higher prices equal better picture quality.

Kerry Lennox contacted Newsbeat. She said: “I recently bought a home cinema system and was informed by the shop assistant that I would need to buy a £50 HDMI cable. I bought one for £10 from a well known supermarket chain.”

Marcus Hodges wrote: “I’ve got a really expensive one and a cheap one for £12. To be honest, they’re exactly the same!”

One professional HDMI sceptic is technology reviewer James Holland.

“Blu Ray players and the TVs they hook up to are completely digital, so you are talking about ones and zeros,” said James.

“The cable itself isn’t contributing to the quality of that picture at all. It is just moving it from one place to the other. It’s the electronics at both ends that do the hard work.”

Shopping test

Unlike their analogue predecessors, SCART cables, HDMI sends sound and pictures encoded in digital form, theoretically making it less vulnerable to interference.

Dr Eric Chowanietz, Principle Lecturer in Media Technology at De Montfort University, believes there is little to support the claims made for pricier models.

As you connect more and more items together, say an HD box and games console, or multi channel amplifier, you will need better and better quality cables to maintain the quality of the signal

Chris Jenkins, tech labs manager

He said: “You wouldn’t buy a more expensive printer cable and expect to print higher quality documents.

“The document quality depends on the printer and it is much the same with a digital system.”

Newsbeat went on a mystery shop with 20-year-old student Ed Trencher. In each store he asked which cable he should buy for connecting an Xbox 360 to a HD television.

John Lewis: “They said their cheapest cable was £19.99 and I shouldn’t spend any more because they all do the same thing.”

Micro Anvika: “The guy said HDMI is HDMI and the cables shouldn’t really differ. The cheapest one, he tried to sell me, was £29.99. The most expensive one they had was £95 and he said there wasn’t really much difference between them.”

PC World: “They tried to sell me a £39.99 HDMI cable which was, apparently, clearer picture quality.”

Currys Digital: “They said I should buy the £69.99 HDMI cable because it provided a much better picture quality over the cheaper version, but for some reason [the assistant] decided to knock £20 off.”

Quality cable

Currys and PC World both offer HDMI cables priced between £19.99 and £119.

A statement from DSGi, which owns the two chains said: “We always aim to help our customers find the right product for their choice of hardware by clearly explaining the differences between the cables and our staff receive training on these products.

“The choice of HDMI cable is mainly determined by the level of signal purity that the consumer is looking for in the connection between playback device and television.”

The company said that some cables were more expensive than others because the materials used in them, such as copper wiring, were of a higher quality.

One expert who supports that claim is Chris Jenkins, tech labs manager for Future Publishing group, behind Home Cinema Choice.

He argues that more expensive cables do make a difference, especially in more complex home cinema setups and over cable runs of longer than one metre.

“As you connect more and more items together, say an HD box and games console, or multi channel amplifier, you will need better and better quality cables to maintain the quality of the signal.

“£120 cable for your first purchase? No. But certainly don’t try to get away with a £1.99 cable”

Chris’ advice is to budget around 10% of a system’s price for HDMI cables.

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new ways of selling hdmi splitters

Dec 30, 2009 – Atlona Technologies, an american based company with strong production facility in Taiwan, has finally released yet another addition to their product line with the AT-HAD-V31. This product is a high performance 3×1 HDMI 1.3 Switcher that can easily switch between 3 sources and output to a single display up to six feet away. While this AT-HAD-V31 Switcher has the ability to be controlled manually is also comes stocked with intelligent AUTO function, which is capable of automatically detecting and selecting the newly powered high definition display source. All inputs are active simultaneously, reducing switching time.

The AT-HAD-V31 is based on the Silicon Image HDMI 1.3b chip-set and therefore is capable of routing the highest resolutions up to 1080p as well as supporting 36-bit Deep Color depth. With this unit’s embedded digital audio, high quality audio is capable of being transmitted from up to 3 sources to any HDMI display or projector. This Atlona Pro HD-Switch also supports compressed audio such as DTS Digital, Dolby Digital (including DTS-HD and Dolby True HD)

Atlona marketing team have included an HDMI cable with the switchers. Atlona has even decided to go the extra mile by permanently attaching a 2m HDMI Cable to this particular switch to seem cost effectiveness . Along with being HDCP compliant, this economically priced product is compatible with HD-DVD, Blu-Ray, PS3, HD Set-top Boxes, and more, making this product is perfect for any application.
Atlona’s

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How to choose a good HDMI cable??

How to choose a good DHMI cable is not an easy task especially for new users. Here we list some useful factors that you can consider.

HDMI Standards Compliance

Each HDMI cable is rated to comply with a specific revision of the HDMI standards. A cable rated for HDMI 1.2a should meet the requirements of HDMI 1.0, 1.1,1.2 and 1.3– but is not guaranteed to meet the standards for HDMI 1.4

HDMI Cable Categories

The HDMI standards define two categories of cables. Category 1 HDMI cables are designed to support HDTV resolutions and frame rates. Category 2 cables are required for higher resolutions or higher frame rates.

Cable Length

The HDMI specification does not define a maximum cable length. HDMI cables are commonly available in 3′ to 50′ lengths.

Purchasing a cable longer than necessary will cost you more money, but it will also increase signal loss due to attenuation.

Cable Quality

All other factors being equal, a cable which is built to higher tolerances using better materials will outperform a cable which is built merely to meet a standards specification. In addition, these premium cables will often provide longer service lives.

An HDMI cable can be made using 28 AWG wire, but the use of 24 AWG wire will create a sturdier cable which is more resistant to attenuation.

As with traditional analog stereo cables, premium HDMI cables are often furnished with gold plated connectors to ensure the best possible signal quality.

Active Cables

For specialized high-end applications, some manufacturers are selling active HDMI cables. These cables use a variety of technologies which involve boosting the transmission distance or quality through the addition of electrical power to the cable connection.

HDMI Devices

Another approach to supporting extremely long cable runs is to chain multiple HDMI cables together with amplifiers, repeaters, or equalizers.

Price

An HDMI cable only has to be good enough to support the equipment which it connects. It is useless to pay for a premium gold-plated HDMI cable for a low-end television set. If you have an expensive Sony, Pioneer, Panasonic tv or a decent Projector etc its probably worth buying a decent branded cable, as there is always a bargain on the net. www.ukhdmi.com is one of the most popular B2C websites to buy HDMI cables in the UK.

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What is HDMI, Anyway?

Ever since HDMI-capable devices started to come onto the market a few years ago, there have been a lot of questions–and a lot of misconceptions–about HDMI and HDMI cables. A “FAQ” on this subject, as we’ve found in trying to assemble one, would be so long that the better way, we think, to provide some answers is to simply address the major question groups: What is HDMI, anyway? What’s in an HDMI cable? Why might I, or might I not, want to use an HDMI Cable as opposed to, say, component video? What makes one HDMI cable better than another, and when does it really matter?

So, What is HDMI, Anyway?
HDMI stands for “High-Definition Multimedia Interface.” The HDMI standard was developed by a consortium of consumer electronics manufacturers and content providers, to address what, from the content-provider industry’s standpoint, was a serious problem: existing analog video formats such as component video are not easily copy-protected. HDMI, being digital, provides a perfect platform for the implementation of a copy-protection scheme (HDCP, or “High-Definition Content Protection”) which enables the content providers to limit the consumer’s access to, and ability to copy, video content.

As we’ll see, HDMI is a horrid format; it was badly thought out and badly designed, and the failures of its design are so apparent that they could have been addressed and resolved with very little fuss. Why they weren’t, exactly, is really anyone’s guess, but the key has to be that the standard was not intended to provide a benefit to the consumer, but to such content providers as movie studios and the like. It would have been in the consumer’s best interests to develop a standard that was robust and reliable over distance, that could be switched, amplified, and distributed economically, and that connects securely to devices; but the consumer’s interests were, sadly, not really a priority for the developers of the HDMI standard.

What’s in an HDMI Cable?
The HDMI format is essentially a digital version of RGB analog video; the principal signal in an HDMI cable is carried on four shielded twisted pairs (yes, just like a CAT5 cable, but with shielding added), one of which is for red, one for blue, and one for green. Sync pulses, which tell the display where a line or frame ends or begins, are carried on the blue line. In some cases, rather than RGB video, HDMI carries Y/Pb/Pr “color-difference” video, which represents the same information as RGB but differently conveyed. The fourth twisted pair carries a digital clock signal, and seven miscellaneous additional conductors carry some signaling and incidental functions.

Why Might I Want to Use HDMI?
HDMI is often the handiest way to connect two devices; at the moment, that’s really the best reason to use it. However, in the future, it may become necessary to use HDMI connections with certain devices, or certain recorded media, in order to get full HD content. Beyond that, there aren’t a lot of compelling reasons to use HDMI as your connection method. Most of the arguments we hear are based upon common misconceptions about the benefits of HDMI, and one really needs to get past those to understand just what the real reasons to use–or not to use–HDMI are.

HDMI Myths and Misconceptions:
1. “Only HDMI carries High-Definition Signals.” Wrong, wrong, wrong. Analog component video and RGB both support high-definition resolutions, and what’s more, they’re more robust and dependable over distance. There likely will be cases, in the future, where high-definition signals are available from certain source recordings only through the HDMI port, and only downconverted standard-definition video will be available on analog outputs. However, as of this writing, none of the recordings available on high-definition disc formats have the “flag” set to limit HD output to HDMI. Some “upconverting” DVD players will output their upconverted signals only on HDMI, but the value of DVD-player upconversion ranges from dubious to clearly negative as in most cases it only adds an additional rescaling step to the signal chain.

2. “HDMI provides a pure uncompressed HD signal.” This is one of those statements which is true if taken in a wholly irrelevant sense, and untrue if taken in its only meaningful sense. Unless you work in a video production facility, chances are that you’ve never seen uncompressed HD video. That’s a shame, because it’s gorgeous; side-by-side comparison with, say, an ATSC broadcast signal or an HD-DVD signal can be a rude awakening, and just serves to highlight how heavily-compressed and artifact-laced all of the HD video sources we view are. No broadcast, and no recording medium, on the consumer market provides uncompressed HD video, and none are likely to do so in the near term.

So what is meant by the assertion that the HDMI signal is uncompressed? What this too-often-repeated statement actually means is that the signal is not further compressed when it is translated from its source format to HDMI. But the same is true of all source-to-display baseband video formats; component video and RGB are not compressed after the signal is decoded from a DVD or a broadcast signal. The assertion that HDMI is “uncompressed HD video” means only, then, that HDMI is no worse in this respect than any competing video format.

3. “When I use a digital source, I get a pure digital-to-digital signal chain using HDMI.” This, again, is true in an essentially meaningless sense, and untrue in the sense in which most people actually understand it. The assumption behind the statement is that the signal flows, unaltered and without degradation, from a digital source to a digital display without ever being converted, and that by eliminating these conversions–specifically, digital-to-analog conversions–one gets a better picture. But the HDMI signal is not the same as the signal recorded on a DVD, or sent in an ATSC or QAM transmission; all of those are compressed formats which encode video in an entirely different way from HDMI. Accordingly, to get from the one to the other requires decoding and conversion. In every case, the signal is decoded and rendered as a video stream. If the original signal is in one resolution, and the output format is in another, the image will be rescaled; if the original signal is recorded in one colorspace and the output format is in another, it’ll be converted. There is nothing inherently perfect or error-free about digital-to-digital, as opposed to digital-to-analog, scaling and conversions, and some things — scaling, in particular — are often more easily done well in the analog domain than in the digital domain.

So, yes, a DVD player putting out an upscaled HD resolution through an HDMI cable into a plasma display is an “all-digital” signal chain–but it’s an all-digital chain in which the colorspace is being converted, the original signal is being decoded and converted to another format, and the image is being rescaled not once, but twice along the way. Is doing this digitally superior to doing it in a chain that involves analog conversions? In any particular case it may be, or it may not be, but there’s no reason in principle to think that it necessarily will.

4. “Because HDMI is a digital signal, it doesn’t degrade when run over a long distance like an analog signal does, because it’s just ones and zeros.” Yikes! Not true at all. To explore this issue calls for a bit more detailed discussion.

First, it’s true that if a digital video signal stays intact from one point to another, there’s no degradation of the image. The digital signal itself can degrade, in purely electrical terms, quite a bit over a distance run, but if at the end of that run the bitstream can be fully and correctly reconstituted, it doesn’t matter what degradation the signal suffered–once that information is reconstituted at the receiving end, it’s as good as new.

That’s a big “if,” however. Ideally speaking, digital signals start out as something close to a “square wave,” which is an instantaneous transition from one voltage to another; these transitions signal the beginnings and ends of bits. (In practice, such transitions aren’t strictly possible, and trying to achieve them can generate harmful noise; consequently, high-order harmonics are usually filtered out which results in the wave starting out squarish but not-quite-square.) A square wave, unfortunately, is impossible to convey down any transmission line because it has infinite bandwidth; to convey it accurately, a cable would have to convey all frequencies, out to infinity, all at the same level of loss (“attenuation”). What happens, therefore, in any run of cable is that a digital signal starts out looking relatively nice and somewhat square, and comes out the other end both weaker and rounded-off. The transitions that mark the edges of bits get smoothed and leveled to the point that, far from that ideal square wave, they look like relatively gentle slopes. Portions of the signal lost to impedance mismatch bounce around in the cable and mix with these rounded-off slopes, introducing an unpredictable and irregular component to the signal; crosstalk from the other pairs in the HDMI bundle also contribute uneven and essentially random noise. As a result, what arrives at your display doesn’t look very much like what was sent.

Now, as we’ve said, up to a point, this won’t matter; the bitstream gets accurately reconstituted, and the picture on your display is as good as the HDMI signal can make it. But when it starts to fail, it starts to fail conspicuously and dramatically. The first sign of an HDMI signal failure is digital dropouts–these are colloquially referred to as “sparklies”–where a pixel or two can’t be read. When these “sparklies” are seen, total failure is not far away; if the cable were made ten feet longer, there’s a chance that so little information would get through that there would be no picture on the display at all.

The shame is that, with HDMI, this is prone to happen at rather short lengths. When DVI was first introduced (same encoding scheme, same cable structure, but a different connector from HDMI), it was hard to find cables that were reliable in lengths over 15 feet. The fact that these multipin cables aren’t economical to manufacture in the US and so were being produced exclusively in China, too, didn’t help; Chinese cable manufacturers are very good at keeping costs down, but not the best at keeping tolerances tight. Today, a good HDMI cable can be relatively reliable up to about 50 feet, but because different devices tolerate signal degradation differently, it’s impossible to say categorically that a 50 foot cable will work; it’s only possible to say that it will work with most devices.

Why is that? Well, it all has to do with bad design. The designers of the HDMI standard didn’t really think much about the cable problem, and it shows. This topic is fairly complex in itself, so we’ve split it out into a separate article: What’s the Matter with HDMI Cable?

Analog video signals, contrary to what seems to be the conventional wisdom in home theater circles, are extremely robust over distance. We have run component video for hundreds of feet without observable degradation; the bandwidth of precision video coax, rather than being horribly overtaxed like that of an HDMI cable, is greatly in excess of what’s needed to convey any HD signal. It is true that an analog signal degrades progressively with length; but that degradation, in practice, is so slight and slow that it rarely gives rise to any observable image quality loss in home theater applications.

5. “An HDMI connection is always superior to an analog component video connection.” Not so, for the reasons we’ve addressed above. Further, we’ve noticed that it’s not at all uncommon for the HDMI input to a display to be calibrated very differently from the analog inputs. One plasma display we set up looked very bad when fed an HDMI signal–scenes became washed-out and slightly greenish, and the black level was set all wrong so that high-contrast scenes really had no black to them at all, just a sort of muddy-gray color. After some display tweaking, we were able to rehabilitate the HDMI input so that it looked as good as the component video input–but depending on what calibrations are available to you, how your display’s been set up, and ultimately perhaps upon some subjective aesthetic considerations, it’s not necessarily always going to be possible to get your best picture out of an HDMI input. Whether it looks better, or worse, than the component video input in any particular case will depend on the source, the display, the calibration of the source, the calibration of the display, and, ultimately — since these matters can be somewhat subjective — your judgment.

One note: HDMI will almost always look better than an s-video or composite (not component!) video input. S-video and composite video are both limited to 480i resolution, and do not render color as well as a three-color format like component video or HDMI.

What Makes one HDMI Cable Better than Another, and Does it Matter?
HDMI cable quality is a bit complicated, and unfortunately, it’s hard to judge from a spec sheet, especially because very few manufacturers provide any useful product specs. There are a few things to bear in mind.

At present, to our knowledge, all of our competitors’ HDMI cables are built in China (for more detail on this point, see this article). The Blue Jeans Cable Belden HDMI cables are the only HDMI cables which are manufactured, in principal part, in the USA (at this time, although the cable is made here, we rely on Chinese vendors to affix connectors to it; we hope to bring connectorization of HDMI cables in house in 2008). We are often told that some brand or other of HDMI cable is manufactured in the US, and in every case, we’ve found that not to be so; rather, what often happens is that while the cable is sourced from China, the marketing materials obscure the fact. Don’t let the fact that an HDMI cable bears a U.S. brand name lead you to believe that that HDMI cable contains American products, American labor or American know-how; none of them, other than ours, do. And China may be an easy place to get a good price, but it is not a good place to get a leading-edge technological product; for top-quality data cables (and HDMI is a data cable), the US is still the place to go.

The Chinese source problem makes it very hard to get a spec sheet, and very hard to know what that spec sheet means, when dealing with an HDMI cable. Most vendors of HDMI cable in the US don’t know what attributes would make a good HDMI cable, and since they don’t participate in the manufacture beyond specifying jacket printing and the shape of the molded connector, they don’t really have much reason to find out. The result is that most citations to product spec that one finds in connection with the sale of HDMI cable are references to the product’s wire gage. Wire gage is somewhat meaningful, but judging HDMI cable quality by comparing wire gage is like judging automobile quality by comparing engine block length–a very, very inexact way of looking at the problem.

The primary work of an HDMI cable is done by the four shielded twisted pairs which carry the color, sync, and clock signals. The designers of the HDMI standard made an inexcusable error of judgment in running these signals balanced, in twisted pairs, rather than unbalanced, in coaxes; attenuation (the tendency of the signal to get weaker with distance) is much greater, and impedance and timing are harder to control, in twisted pairs than in coax. Control of the cable impedance is critical to keeping the rounding of the bit edges under control; the more the impedance wanders off of spec, the more the signal will round, and the closer the cable comes to failure. Where a coaxial cable’s impedance can be controlled within two percent of spec, it’s a challenge to keep a twisted pair any tighter than about 15% plus or minus.

The HDMI signal will fail if attenuation is too high, or if the bit transitions become excessively rounded so that the receiving unit can’t reconstitute them accurately. There’s no really reliable benchmark for just how much attenuation is acceptable, or how round the shoulders can be, before the “sparklies” will start. (Yes, there are specs for these things in the official HDMI spec document, but real-world devices vary so much that meeting the spec is no guarantee of success, while failing it is no guarantee of actual failure.) But while wire gage has something to do with the former, it’s really the latter that’s important; and wire gauge has nothing to do, at least directly, with impedance control.

Transmission line impedance, in any cable, is dependent on the cable’s materials and physical dimensions. For purposes of an HDMI cable, these are:
1. the shape and size of the paired wires;
2. the thickness, and dielectric properties, of the insulation on the paired wires;
3. the dimensions of the shield over the pair.
These seem, in principle, like simple things to control–that is, until one spends a bit of time in a wire and cable factory and finds out just how many little problems there are. Wire is never perfect; its dimensions and shape vary from point to point, and small dimensional variations can make for significant impedance changes. Wire can suffer from periodicity (in fact, strictly speaking, it not only can, but always, at some level, does) because it’s been drawn over a wheel that was microscopically out-of-round, and that periodicity will cause the wire to resonate at particular wavelengths, which can really wreak havoc. The plastic dielectric has to be consistently extruded to the correct diameter (and thousandths of an inch matter here!); if it’s foamed, it needs to have highly consistent bubble size so that one side of the dielectric isn’t airier than another, or one foot airier than the next. The two wires in the pair need not to wander in relation to one another; as they “open up” or are pressed tightly together because of tensioning on the wire-twisting machine (or tension applied to the cable by other handling, or by shield application, or…), or because the finished cable is being flexed, the impedance changes. The shield is a factor in the impedance as well, because both signal wires have capacitance to the shield, and if the foil is wrapped more tightly in one place and more loosely in another, that, too, will cause impedance to vary. (And these are just a few of the obvious problems; manufacturing processes involve other problems that nobody not involved in manufacturing would ever think of. For example, the lube that’s used to assist in wire drawing needs to be washed off the wire before dielectric is extruded over it; what if the side from which a jet of cleaner is fired at the wire gets cleaner than the opposite side, and the dielectric winds up conforming differently to one side of the cable than the other? What about the other thousand things you and I, not working in a wire factory, have never even begun to think about?) As a result, although every manufacturer’s HDMI cable is built to meet a nominal 100 ohm characteristic impedance, every foot of every cable is different from every other. The best one can do is to hold impedance within a range, centered on 100 ohms; the official HDMI spec calls for 100 ohms plus or minus 15%, which for a coax would be horribly sloppy. The tighter that tolerance can be kept, the better the performance will be.

Worse still, impedance is not a one-dimensional characteristic. HDMI cable operates over an enormous frequency bandwidth, and impedance in a twisted pair is frequency-dependent (in a coax it is, too, but far, far less so). A twisted pair’s impedance will rise relative to frequency; how much it will do so, and how evenly and regularly, will depend upon subtle physical characteristics. So, strictly speaking, no cable can actually be within tolerance for impedance over the whole operating range of the cable; it can only be within tolerance by the method the spec designates for measurement.

Impedance control is important for another reason: timing. As impedance varies, so will the time it takes a signal to travel down the cable. Electricity travels at nearly the speed of light; how close to the speed of light it travels depends on the dielectric, and is referred to as the “velocity of propagation.” The objective, in putting together the four pairs in an HDMI cable, is to have them be identical; but in actual practice, each pair in a four-pair set will have its own delay. If the delay of one pair is sufficiently greater than the delay of another pair, the receiving device will not know which “red” pixel belongs to which “blue” and “green” pixel, or if the clock circuit is off, it may be impossible to time any of the color signals reliably. Since this delay depends on the consistency and dimensions of the dielectric, and the consistency and dimensions of the dielectric are important factors in impedance, the same requirement for consistent impedance applies here; if impedance is too inconsistent, timing will be too inconsistent, and the whole system will fail.

One way of looking at cable performance is to chart the attenuation for a given length of cable against frequency. For any cable, attenuation (measured in dB) will increase with frequency; this attenuation comes from a few factors. Loss to resistance goes up with frequency, because higher frequency signals are able to use less and less of the cross-section of the wire (this is known as “skin effect”) and so have less copper to travel through. Losses to reactance — capacitance and inductance — also increase with frequency. Then, what we call “return loss” adds the most irregular, and difficult-to-control, component to the loss. “Return loss” is the loss to impedance mismatch, and is so called because it represents the portion of the signal which is lost when, upon encountering a change in the impedance of the circuit (this may be a change in impedance along the cable, or a change of impedance on entering or leaving a connector, or a circuit board trace, or encountering a different impedance than expected at the load end of the circuit), it reflects back along the cable towards the source rather than being delivered to the load. While basic resistive and reactive losses are pretty reliable and have a definite relationship to frequency, return loss can be quite irregular. A graph of return loss against frequency, rather than showing a nice, consistent curve, is characterized by sharp, spiky lines. Why is this? Well, return loss has to do, more than anything else, with those manufacturing tolerances and their impact upon impedance. Every wire, at some level, has some periodicity, and so resonates somewhat at some unintended frequency. Every dielectric extruder fails, at some level, to extrude the dielectric consistently; every spooler that winds wire or dielectric-covered wire, every wire twister, every unreeler that handles that wire as it goes back into another stage of processing, every foil-wrap and drain-wire machine, every planetary cabler (which bundles and twists the pairs together with one another), every jacket handler and extruder–all of these machines, in all of these processes, apply microscopic irregularities to the cable which show up as return loss. Return loss can’t be eliminated, at least not in a real-world cable; but it can be, within limits, made as small and as consistent across a range of frequencies, as possible.

Generally speaking, devices handle very linear or predictable losses very well. If one knows that one part of a signal will come in a thousand times weaker than another part, it’s easy to “EQ” the incoming signal to boost the weak part to match the level of the strong part. But return loss can’t be EQ’d out because it’s too uneven and unpredictable.

Return loss, not resistance, is the critical consideration in determining the quality of an HDMI cable; if one were comparing cables with similar resistance, capacitance, and inductance values against one another, and consulting a chart of attenuation relative to frequency, what one would generally see would be that cables with superior return loss characteristics would show a flatter attenuation curve than the others. This is very important in HDMI because the required bandwidth for an HDMI signal is enormous, and the higher the frequency, the harder it is to control return loss.

Generally, in looking at HDMI cable products currently available on the market, we’ve found that these issues get overlooked. Instead of trying to control impedance well, which will result in flattening the curve on the attenuation chart, manufacturers generally try to control resistance. Why? Well, resistance is a lot easier to control. Bigger wire (smaller AWG number) has less resistance, and choice of materials can play a role, too (silver-plated copper is lower in resistance than bare copper, and bare copper is lower in resistance than tin-plated copper, for example). But as the frequency demands placed on the cable increase, bigger wire doesn’t really help all that much (and, for a whole slew of reasons having to do with manufacturing process control, it can actually hurt), because it’s not the total loss that’s limiting performance; it’s the non-linear component of the loss that’s the real problem. With return loss specs not generally available for Chinese-sourced cable, one often can’t get a good idea exactly what basis there is for comparison between two HDMI cables.

So, how does one compare? We provide a spec sheet for our HDMI cable, but you will find, if you go looking for similar specs on competing products, that spec sheets are few and far between. Another basis for comparison is to get your vendor to send you a copy of his compliance testing certificate–but, for various reasons, many vendors cannot or will not supply this information. Sometimes, all one can do is try a cable on a given set of devices, and see if it works. That may not be the most satisfying answer, but it is often the only answer there is.

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VGA To Hdmi Cable

VGA is the short form for Video Graphics Array and HDMI is the short form for High Definition Multimedia Interface. Both are a type of input connections for display mechanisms like the different kinds of monitors, TV and even laptops. And VGA to HDMI cable converters are nothing but cables that are used to convert the output from a VGA jack connector to a HDMI connecter.

These cables are very good and efficient because they convert the analog output from a VGA output device to a digital output which is the HDMI port. VGA to HDMI cables are not available that easily in the market. Because of this, people with VGA output devices and HDMI Input devices seem to be having lots of disappointment. Many people these days tend to buy electronic items from different localities other than their own place. And thus there is a problem of conversion of jacks and pins for the proper connection of the device and for the proper working of the gadget.

These cables are not that much widely available in local markets. VGA to HDMI cables have a lesser demand by the consumers and are hence preferred by lesser crowds. These cables might not be profitable to the shopkeepers of local markets. Hence most of them do not take the risk of not earning their profit by trading on these products. Certain products have to be shipped from a different place and VGA to HDMI cable is one such product. There is a separate cost incurred for shipping and transportation. VGA to HDMI cables are not available that easily in the market. Because of this, people with VGA output devices and HDMI inout devies seem to be having lots of disappointment. Many people these days tend to buy  electronic items from different localities other than their own place. And thus there is a problem of conversion of jacks and pins for the proper connection of the device and for the proper working of the gadget. 

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Planex’s HDMI Cable is thinner than Wireworld

Conventional HDMI cable is stiff and heavy, lacks flexibility to get around tight spaces. One looks for an alternate cable solution is either getting a much expensive wireless module or a flat HDMI like Wireworld world’s thinnest HDMI cable. If the Island’s 3mm profile is not thin enough, Planex Japan has another measured at a mere 2mm in thickness.

The Planex’s cable uses 24 K gold plated connector and 99.99% oxygen-free copper, with ability to deliver 1080p HD signal. Color choices are available in black or white with the price of 2,480 yen to 3,980 yen ($23-$37) for 1m to 3m length

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HDMI Cable

EDN blog articlwe HDMI cables for $2 or $600? mentions article Why are HDMI cables so expensive?. In this article product researchers find little difference between a $10 and a $140 HDMI cables . The result was that the expensive cables may be made with better materials, but they don�t perform digital transmission any better than the cheap cables. At least when talking about a short cable of few feet then I don’t see any reason to pay very much for it. If your local store does not sell reasonably priced HDMI cables, then go to some other store or order on-line. Some shops seem to charge absolutely ridiculous prices for HDMI cables knowing full well that they are taking advantage of people who don�t know any better. Another thing worth to read at HDMI cables for $2 or $600? is a story on very expensive “audiophile” cables that were sold with “story” that adding DC bias to audio cable helped sound. The dc bias to the cable was added using a 9-volt battery. It of course was adjustable ($0.05 pot) so that the lunatic fringe audiophile community could have an infinite level of adjustment and an associate infinite collective of opinions as to what was the perfect setting – pure marketing genius. Good story and “market factors” seem to sell cheap products at high price.

hdmi-connector-diagram

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1080P Full HD for HDMI Cable for PS3 / XBOX 360 Review

Each Full HD for HDMI cable is rated to comply with a specific revision of the HDMI standards. This one for PS3Xbox 360 is guaranteed to meet the standards for HDMI 1.3, indicating that it supports all new HDMI advanced features.

By reading the product description, it says that this Full HD for HDMI cable designed to support 10.2 Gbps, 1080p and 1080i full HD resolutions. As a matter of fact, it do does on PS3 and Xbox 360.

The cable length can be absolutely available in 3′ to 50′ lengths since it’s widely used in many areas. For game console use, like this one, 3m is enough, surely.

We double check the material of the cable, it’s made of flexible PVC jacket and perfectly oxygen-free conductor. The gold-plated connectors can ensure purest digital signal transfer and also more resistant to attenuation.

Installation of the Full HD for HDMI cable is simple as expected, very easy to set up. Just hook your PS3Xbox 360 HDMI output port up to the TV video input port. Once connected, you will find the huge changes of image resolution improvement

Conclusion

The final score is 9/10. If you really want to boost the fun the PS3 / Xbox 360 games bring you, this 1080P Full HD for HDMI cable is a must have to enlarge your view.

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HDMI Cable

HDMI CABLE

On Saturday I finally stepped out of the television stone age and into the age of high definition. While I rather like tech and gadgets, I have learned to wait a bit when it comes to the latest and greatest. After all, technology is marked by price settling. Briefly put, when a new technology emerges, it will generally be absurdly expensive. For example, personal computers used to cost a small fortune, but now they are quite cheap. When HDTVs first appeared, they were extremely pricey-so much so that I could not justify ditching my 36 inch CRT TV (which I got more or less by accident).

But, the prices seem to have dropped to that settled point-that is, the point at which they will probably not go much lower for quite some time. While I could be wrong, I suspect that decent 42 inch LCD TVs will stick at about $800 for quite some time-so I bought one.

Naturally, to use the HDTV properly, you need HD input. I happened to have an XBox 360 and an old laptop that both have HDMI outputs. However, since the Xbox had been plugged into the old TV, I did not have an HDMI cable on hand.

Wanting to use my Xbox right away, I went to the cable section of Best Buy and stopped in shock at their prices. The cheapest HDMI cable was $30 and the others were in the $70 and up range. I overhead the salesperson selling some of the cables-going on about how important it was to buy the super-expensive gold plated cables. While I am not an expert on HDMI cables, I do know a bit about computer cables. My experience with them has been that you want to avoid the super cheap (in terms of quality) cables, but that the super-premium cables really do nothing more than the moderately priced decent cables.

But, since I was driven by the desire to get right to the XBox 360 in HD, I parted with the $30 for the cable. However, a little research revealed what I expected: the super high end premium cables do not really do anything special-except make the companies some decent profits. While you will want to make sure that your HDMI cable is not some crappy cable and that it is the right sort for your hardware, a relative inexpensive cable will work fine. For example, I got another HDMI cable from Amazon for a few bucks and it works just as good as the $30 one I bought at Best Buy. And that $30 one works as well as the $80-100 cables. So, save your money and avoid the super-premium cables: you will almost certainly not get what you think you are paying for.

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